All About Gemstones: Craftsmanship and Tradition

Discover gemstones, their characteristics, techniques, uses and craftsmanship. ©P

Rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds: each gemstone has its own characteristics. From selecting and cutting the stone to the work of the lapidary and the setting, here are the key stages involved in creating fine jewellery.

A gemstone may appear flawless to the naked eye. Yet behind its brilliance and colour lie numerous characteristics that a professional must know how to identify. In high jewellery, choosing a gemstone is therefore not based solely on its appearance. Its quality, origin, colour, transparency and any potential inclusions all play a role. Before becoming part of a piece of jewellery, a gemstone passes through several expert hands. Gemmologists, lapidaries and jewellers each intervene at different stages, sharing the same objective: to reveal the stone's natural characteristics while respecting its structure.

Selecting the Stone: An Essential Step

Diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, tourmalines and aquamarines: the gemstones used in jewellery have very different properties. Their hardness, colour, transparency and sensitivity to impact or heat must all be taken into consideration. The choice also depends on the piece of jewellery that will hold the gemstone. A stone intended for a ring will not necessarily be selected according to the same criteria as one destined for a pendant or a pair of earrings. At this stage, observation plays an important role. Inclusions, often regarded as imperfections, can also provide information about the nature of a gemstone and contribute to its identity. In some cases, they can help distinguish a natural stone from a synthetic or treated one.

From Cutting to Setting

Traditional craftsmanship in gemstone cutting for jewellery creation. ©P

Once selected, the stone may be entrusted to a lapidary. Their role is to cut and polish the gemstone in order to achieve the desired shape and proportions. This stage requires great precision. Every movement must take the stone's structure into account. An incorrect cut can alter the way light enters and exits the gemstone, while also resulting in a significant loss of material. Cutting is therefore not simply about giving a stone a particular shape. It is also about making the most of its natural characteristics. Depending on the gemstone and the desired result, different shapes may be used: round, oval, pear, cushion, emerald cut or baguette cut. The lapidary's work is thus based on a balance between the constraints of the material and the aesthetic requirements of the piece.

The work of cutting precious and fine gemstones has evolved, particularly with the introduction of new measuring tools and technologies that improve cutting precision. Nevertheless, manual skills remain essential. Professionals must constantly observe the gemstone, monitor its development and adapt their work according to how the stone responds. Once cut and polished, the gemstone can be sent to the jeweller's workshop.

There, it will be incorporated into the piece of jewellery according to the design envisioned by the creator. Setting is another particularly delicate stage. The metal must hold the stone securely while allowing enough space for the light to shine through. Depending on the design, different techniques may be used, including prong setting, bezel setting or pavé setting. The jeweller must also take into account the shape and dimensions of each gemstone. In some creations, stones are selected individually to achieve harmony in colour, size and proportions.

Craftsmanship in the Service of the Stone

Creations where the gemstone takes centre stage. ©P

In high jewellery, the gemstone often occupies a central place in the design of a piece. Its colour can influence the choice of metal, its shape can determine the design of the setting, and its dimensions can affect the overall proportions. Some creations are designed around a particular gemstone. In other cases, several stones are combined to create an interplay of colour or light. Because every gemstone has its own characteristics, the work involves adapting to what exists naturally rather than attempting to completely standardise the material.

Behind a gemstone set into a piece of jewellery, several different crafts may come into play. The gemmologist analyses the stone, the lapidary cuts and polishes it, while the jeweller works on the setting and carries out the stone setting. Each of these stages requires specific expertise. They also rely on an in-depth knowledge of gemstones and their properties.

High jewellery therefore preserves techniques passed down through generations while gradually incorporating new tools and technologies. From the selection of the gemstone to its final setting, every stage contributes to the creation of the finished piece.